Friday, November 23, 2007

Speechless

This past week I attended the graveside funeral service of the mother of a friend of mine. I have been to several burials in Mexico. However, upon entering this cemetery, I was completely speechless. I drove through the entrance and began looking for the burial site, but I got lost. The place was enormous! I have never seen so many graves. I drove and I drove and the graves just keep going and going. After searching for a while without any luck, I had to call someone on their cell phone so that they could lead me to the designated site.

We were there for more than 3 hours, mostly because we were waiting for the workers from the cemetery to actually do the burial (many other people were being buried at the same time). Again, I was speechless as I sat their looking out at all the graves in every direction. It was more than moving. Because the cemetery is on the side of a hill, I could see in the distance, the most populated area of the city - where 25% of the Federal District's population lives. I was reminded, in a powerful way, why I am in Mexico City. It was an experience that will be hard to forget.

After reading a few articles online, I learned that over 100,000 people visit this cemetery during the Day of the Dead (November 2). I also found out that this cemetery is the second largest cemetery in Latin America: Panteon Civil "San Nicolas Tolentino" on the side of Cerro de la Estrella in Iztapalapa. I have not been able to find any numbers about how many people are buried there, but I can tell you that almost every little grave plot is stacked an entire family, one on top of the other. Another interesting note: according to Catholic tradition San Nicolas Tolentino (whom the cemetery is named after) is the patron "saint" of the souls in Purgatory.

Tuesday, November 20, 2007

Cafe La Habana


When the AIMers from Leon were visiting Mexico City, they told me that they wanted to visit Cafe La Habana. So, we went. This is a classic historical joint in Mexico City. The place where Fidel Castro and Che planned the Cuban Revolution... and they have a great Mocha Frappe! To see more pictures, click here.


Monday, November 19, 2007

Taxi Dashboard Altars


Almost every taxi in Mexico City has a dashboard altar. Unless the taxi driver is Christian, like our friend Luis Gonzalez, inwhich case there would be no altar. Anyway, here is an example. This one includes a picture of the driver's son (in a Spiderman frame) and a bouquet of flowers set beneath a crucifix. Of course, no taxi dashboard altar would be complete without rosary beads hanging from the rearview mirror. A couple of the things missing from this altar might be a laminated picture of the Saint Christopher, the patron of safe travel and also an image of the Virgen of Guadalupe, the patron "saint" of Mexico. I will try to take a few more pictures of these over the next couple of weeks to give you a better idea of what I am talking about. For the most part, these are animistic representations of spiritual power and protection. One of the more popular ones among taxi drivers in Villa Coapa is San Judas Tadeo (who is the Catholic representation of Jude the brother of James). Accordingly, they believe he is the patron "saint" of difficult situations, and they may pray a special prayer to him whenever they have problems.


San Judas Tadeo

Saturday, November 17, 2007

Holy Gum Tree, Batman!


I think that I found a real live gum tree in Villa Coapa! Actually, I know of several trees like this one around the city. There is another one like this one, only with a lot more gum, in front of Pericoapa (not far from my house).